Chickpea and mushroom quiche

 

This is one of my favourite quiches and is especially luxurious when made with cream. It is ideal for for entertaining, especially if you have baby new potatoes to go with it. In hot weather, when you don’t want your guests eating in a sweltering boat, it can be made in advance and eaten lukewarm.

 

I’m afraid that I don’t accept that a white sauce made with gram flour is an acceptable substitute for a sauce made with eggs. However, if you are well along the vegan spectrum, I suggest alternatives to cows’ milk, which is what I invariably use. You might want to use coconut milk - but I think that it might not complement the tarragon and green peppercorns.

 

Serves 2

 

Ingredients

 

1/2 cup chickpeas, soaked and cooked

1 recipe pastry

1 large onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, diced

8 to 10 button mushrooms, sliced

1 tbsp olive oil

1 tbsp butter or extra olive oil

1 egg

1/3 cup (vegan) yoghurt OR cream

1/4 cup milk OR water

1/2 tsp tarragon

1 tsp crushed green peppercorns

salt

 

Method:

• Cook the chickpeas and set aside.
• Make the pastry and roll it out to fit a 230 mm (9 in) frying pan. Press to fit, cutting and pasting as necessary, to line the entire pan.
• Put the frying pan on a low heat over a flame tamer, and cook uncovered, for 10 to 15 minutes, until the pastry is crisp.
• Meanwhile, prepare the onion and garlic and fry in the oil and butter. If you don’t have any butter, use an extra tbsp of olive oil, but the butter makes this quiche richer.
• Slice the mushrooms and add to the pan. Cook without browning until the onion is thoroughly softened and the mushrooms have wilted.
• When the pastry is cooked, put the vegetables in the case, spreading them evenly over the base.
• Put the drained chickpeas on top, again spreading them out evenly.
• Gently beat the egg, yoghurt or cream and milk or water together. Mix in the tarragon, green peppercorns and salt. Pour this carefully into the frying pan, tilting it so that the custard is evenly distributed.
• Cover and cook over a low heat, until the custard has risen and is set – approximately 15 to 20 minutes.

Serve, if you can with new potatoes and a salad of mixed leaves. On a hot day, and in the unlikely event that youcan provide it, chilled white wine is delicious with this quiche.

Alternative cooking:

• If you prefer to cook the quiche in the oven, line a 200 mm (8 in) flan case with pastry and bake it in a pre-heated, Fairly Hot oven for 15 minutes. If possible, put a heavy baking sheet on the top shelf to heat up with the oven. This gives you a better chance of ending up with a crisp base.
• Follow stages 3 – 7. Reduce the oven setting to Moderate, and then put the quiche back in the oven for a further 30 minutes, until the filling is set. It should have risen to the top of the case and be a delicate golden colour.

Note:

• I have made this quiche with green peppercorns in brine, when I couldn’t find dried green peppercorns, but the result it disappointing compared with the dried ones.
• If you have access to fresh herbs, you might well prefer to use these. However, tarragon has its own quite distinct flavour, which I think goes well in this recipe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Scots Broth

 

Traditional Scots Broth is made with mutton, or at least a mutton bone.  However, it is quintessential peasant food, making use of cheap and readily available ingredients.  I rather suspect that there were many crofts and cottages that rarely saw meat and that my version isn't too far from the original.  This is a great meal for those on a small income.

 

The soup made from dried and winter vegetables.  Leeks are often used, as are 'neeps', better known as swede (or rutabaga in USA).  Kale or cabbage can be added and often are, but they tend to make the soup smell a bit sulphorous by day two, so if you feel that you might be eating this soup for a while, I would suggest chopping and wilting some and stirring it into the bowl as you serve, on the first day.  Cabbage is worse for this, so you might be happy just adding the kale towards the end, so that it still has some texture.  The rest of the vegetables should be thoroughly softened.

 

Although it's called a broth, this is actually a pretty substantial soup and the starches will thicken it up overnight.  You will undoubtedly need to water it down the next day.  I use white pepper in this recipe.  This is the pepper that was generally used in Britain until the late 70s when black peppercorns and grinders became popular.  It is quite different from ground black pepper, with more pungency and less savour.  I think it seems the right one to use, but use black if you prefer or if that's all you have.  Don't go overboard with herbs - there wouldn't be many available in a cottage garden in the colder months in Scotland.  But I suspect dried thyme would be readily available.

 

If your seawater is clean, use 1/3 to 2/3 fresh water.  Don't add any more salt until you've cooked the soup and tasted it.

 

Serves 2, very generously

 

Ingredients

 

1 tbsp of oil

I large onion, chopped

salt 

I large or 2 medium carrots, diced

1 large or 2 medium parsnips, diced

1 medium potato, diced

1/2 tsp celery seed OR 1 stick celery diced

1 tsp stock powder

1/4 cup dried peas (eg blue peas)

2 tbsp yellow split peas

2 tbsp split lentils

1/2 cup barley

1/2 tsp dried thyme

1/2 tsp white pepper

about 3 cups water

fresh parsley

 

Method:

• Soak the whole peas in the usual manner in your pressure cooker.
• When you're ready to make the soup, add the oil.  Then add the onion and cook for a few minutes with the peas, together with 1/2 tsp salt and mix well.
• Add the carrots, parsnips, potato and celery seed.  Sprinkle over another 1/2 tsp of salt and stir everything together.  Cover with a cup of water.
• Mix in the stock powder and then add the split peas, lentils and barley. Stir well.
• Now add another 2 cups water, if your pressure cooker can take it.  The split peas and lentils are inclined to foam up and block the vent, although the oil should prevent this, so don't overfill the pan.
• Spoon in the thyme and the pepper, cover the pan and bring up to pressure. 
• Cook for 7 minutes and let the pressure come down gradually.
• Once you can remove the lid, taste the soup and add more salt, pepper and thyme if you think it needs it.  Take out some grains of barley and a couple of peas to check that they are cooked through.  If not, cover and give the soup another couple of minutes under pressure, letting the pressure down gradually.
• If the soup seems too thick, thin it with more hot water and taste again.  It should be generously seasoned with salt and pepper
• If you have such a thing on board, chop some fresh parsley and add it to the soup.  Stir it all again and let it stand for a few minutes.

Serve hot, with fresh bread - or on its own.  This is definitely a meal in a bowl.

 

Note:

• Ensure that your root vegetables are all cut to about the same size so that they will cook evenly. 

Variations:

• Vegan ghee is a good alternative to oil, especially if you only have olive oil. 
• Add some shredded cabbage or kale. 
• Use a small turnip or swede instead of parsnip.  Alternatively, you can use less carrot and parsnip and add turnip and/or swede.  Or double the recipe and use them all (but you will need a large pressure cooker).
• You can add replace the onion with a leek or use both, but beware of overloading the pan!
• Use a different stock powder, or leave it out altogether. There will still be plenty of flavour. 
• Chana dal can be used in place of yellow split peas, which is what I do, because I always have them on board. 
• Use black pepper if you don't have white. 

  

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'Chicken' seitan and spinach in Indian creamy sauce - Malai palak

This is one of those insanely good Indian recipes that I find irresistable.  Malai means cream, Palak is spinach and this is a loosely adapted recipe from Vegan Richa. In her recipe, she uses soy curls to replace chicken, which are then cooked in a delectable creamy spicy sauce. I’m not even sure if you can buy soy curls in New Zealand and can’t imagine them being commonly available around the world, so it strikes me as a much better idea to use seitan.  Seitan also produces a nice 'meaty' result.

In the original, the soy curls are marinaded and then baked. I think marinades are unseamanlike underway, as well as being wasteful. Certainly, I don’t find it makes much difference to seitan and in fact you get infinitely better results from incorporating the flavours into the seitan in the first place. This is what I’ve done in this recipe. As for baking - I assume many small income voyagers stil lsail without ovens and even those who do, will probabaly avoid using them because of the cost - and the fact that they heat up the cabin.

 

I use ginger paste and garlic paste in my ‛Indian’ cooking. If you prefer to use finely minced ginger and garlic, go ahead.  I'm not sure that this is really a Curry For Cooks, in spite the use of ingredients being pretty authentic: most boats would probably have them on board.  The only exception is the methi and if you don't have it you can leave it out.

Serves 2

Ingredients

For the ‟marinaded chicken”

6 slightly rounded tbsp vital wheat gluten

2 tbsp gram flour

2 tsp nutritional yeast

1/2 tsp mushroom stock powder

1/4 tsp salt

1/4 tsp onion powder

        1/4 tsp garlic granules

1/2 tsp ground coriander

1/2 tsp ground cumin

1/4 cup water

1 tbsp soya sauce

For the sauce:

1 tsp oil

1 (Indian) bay leaf

1 whole clove

1 medium onion, chopped

1/2 tsp garlic paste

1/2 tsp ginger paste

1 small green chilli, diced

1/4 tsp salt

1/2 tsp ground coriander

1/2 tsp ground cumin

1/8 tsp cayenne OR 1/4 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder

pinch ground cinnamon

1/8 tsp black pepper

*200 ml/7 oz ounce can of full fat coconut milk

2 tbsp vegan yoghurt

1/4 cup water or milk

125 g/4 oz spinach, washed and roughly chopped

1 tsp dried fenugreek leaves, kasuri methi

garam masala

chilli flakes

Method:

• Seitan: In a bowl, mix vital wheat gluten, gram flour, nutritional yeast, mushroom stock powder, salt, onion powder, garlic granules, ground coriander and ground cumin.
• In a small jug, mix the water and soya sauce and add them to the bowl.
• Mix into a soft dough, starting with a knife or spatula and ending with your hand. If the mix seems a little bit dry, add a little more water, a teaspoonful at a time. Use the dough to clean your bowl thoroughly, otherwise the dried seitan will need to be soaked off.
• Put the dough on a board and flatten down. You will be cutting it into bite-sized chunks, so it wants to be a suitable thickness.
• Put the trivet into your pressure cooker, along with 1/2 cup water. Place the seitan on the trivet, and bring up to pressure for 5 minutes. Let the pressure go down naturally.
• When you can take the lid off, take out the seitan and cut it up – or tear it for a more ‛authentic’ appearance.
• If you want to, you can now fry the chunks in some oil so that they are crisp on the outside. On odds, I think I prefer them soft.

For the sauce:

• Heat a pan over medium high heat and add some oil.
• Now add the bay leaf, clove, onion, garlic paste, ginger paste, green chilli salt. Cook stirring occasionally until onion is golden.
• Turn down the heat and add coriander, ground cumin, cayenne or Kashmiri chilli, cinnamon and black pepper
• Throw in the seitan pieces and turn for a few minutes so that they are well mixed in and covered in the spices.
• Then add in the milk, yoghurt, water and spinach and mix in. Reduce heat to medium low, cover and cook for 12-15 mins, checking that it’s not drying out. Add some more water, if necessary.
• Add the kasuri methi, check salt and flavour and carry on cooking until you get a rich creamy sauce.

Garnish with garam masala and chilli pepper flakes if you like, and serve with rice, roti or even good quality bread.

Variations:

• Use two or three leaves of Swiss chard instead of spinach.
• Replace the seitan with half a cup of chickpeas or beans, cooked and drained, putting them in with the spinach
• Add some quartered mushrooms, with the onions, etc.
• If you don’t have yoghurt, use more milk/water. If you have a lot of coconut yoghurt, you can just thin that down to suit. You need around 300 ml liquid. You may need to simmer for more or less time to achieve the consistency you want.

Notes:

• * Coconut milk tends to come in an odd assortment of sizes. Just use a can closest to the size in the recipe. If you’re fortunate to find dried, genuine coconut milk, mix that according to the instructions on the container.

 

You will find many more recipeslike this, here, here and here 

 

 

Basic 'chicken' seitan

If you haven't made seitan before, I recommend you read my introduction to the process here. 

 

The basic proportions for making seitan are 1/4 cup of water to 1/2 cup flour.  However, this is somewhat excessively basic and the following recipe is a more appropriate basic 'chicken' recipe. 

 

Before we go any further, and at the risk of shattering all your hopes and illusions, seitan doesn’t taste remotely like chicken. I say this as someone who hasn’t eat chicken for well over a decade, but for all that, I say it with some certainty. I don’t want anyone to be disappointed.

 

This is the one to use if you are copying a tofu recipe: add the seasoning suggested for the marinade (if any) to the dry ingredients.  This 'chicken' can also be used to replace beans and chickpeas in various recipes or even to replace the meat in a well-flavoured chicken dish.  However, I wouldn't recommend serving a slab of it on a plate, with roast potatoes, two veg and gravy!

Serves  2

Ingredients

        1/3 cup  vital wheat gluten

        2 tbsp gram flour

        2 tsp nutritional yeast

1/2 tsp mushroom 'stock' powder

        1/4 tsp onion powder

        1/4 tsp garlic granules

       

1/4 cup water

1 tbsp soya sauce

 

Method:

• In a bowl, mix vital wheat gluten, gram flour, nutritional yeast, mushroom stock powder, salt, onion powder and garlic granules.
• In a small jug, mix the water and soya sauce and add them to the bowl.  Combine everything into a soft dough, starting with a knife or spatula and ending with your hand. If the mix seems a little bit dry, add some more water, a teaspoonful at a time. If too wet, carefully add some more vital wheat gluten.  Use the dough to clean your bowl thoroughly, otherwise the dried seitan will need to be soaked off.
• Put the dough on a board and flatten it down. You will be cutting it into bite-sized chunks, so it wants to be a suitable thickness.
• Put the trivet into your pressure cooker, along with ½ cup water. Place the seitan on the trivet, and bring up to pressure for 5 minutes. Let the pressure go down naturally.
• When you can take the lid off, take out the seitan and cut it up – or tear it for a more ‛organic’ appearance.
• If you want to, you can now fry the chunks in some oil so that they are crisp on the outside. On odds, I think I prefer them soft.

The seitan can now be added to your recipes and, simmered for as long as suits you.  Because it's completely cooked, it only needs reheating; however, it is robust and doesn't start to dissolve - I've often simmered it for about 20 minutes.  It is also quite happy to be shoved around by the spoon without collapsing.  I've seen recipes for tofu kebabs and this seitan, suitably flavoured, should also be a success in this context, too.

 You will find many more recipes for seitan here

Lentil lasagne

Lasagne is generally served up sizzling hot from the oven, with a crisp top, and often crunchy bits of lasagne sticking out. I’ve read that some Italians prefer to pop it into the oven for only about a quarter of an hour and to eat it moist and soft. That being so, I think we’ll go for the latter ‘gourmet’ version, which means that instead of using an oven, we can use the pressure cooker. However, be warned that this may not work in a cheap pan because it’s likely to stick. (If your pressure cooker is a bit on the thin side, what you’ll have to do is to put the lasagne into something like a cake tin, that will fit in your pressure cooker. Put half a pint of water in the bottom of the cooker, with the tin on the trivet, loosely covered with greaseproof paper or foil. It can then be cooked at high pressure for 10 minutes.)

I specify ‘no-cook’ lasagne, but in fact I believe that nearly all lasagne sheets can be used without pre-cooking.  If you can find the right pasta, this recipe can be gluten free.

Serves 2

Ingredients

6 pieces ‘no-cook’ lasagne

1/2 cup whole lentils

2 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, diced

1 red or green pepper, chopped

400 g/14 oz can chopped tomatoes

1/2 tsp sage

1/2 tsp basil

1/2 tsp oregano

1/2 tsp cinnamon

1/4 tsp chilli flakes

salt and pepper

cheese sauce, mixed more thickly, as shown in the Variations on that post

Method:

• Cook the soaked lentils as usual and set aside.
• Heat the olive oil in a saucepan. Add the onion, garlic and pepper and fry until the onion is golden.
• Add the tomatoes and mix in the sage, basil, oregano, cinnamon, chilli flakes, salt and pepper.
• When everything is mixed together and heated through, add the lentils. Cook gently for ten minutes or so to let all the flavours combine. Taste and check the seasoning.
• Pour half the sauce into the bottom of the pressure cooker. Add half the lasagne sheets. Unfortunately, these will not fit very neatly, but you will have to do your best. Now add the rest of the sauce and the remaining lasagne. Cover with the cheese sauce, pouring carefully, to ensure that all the lasagne is covered.
• On a medium heat, bring the pressure cooker up to pressure. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes and reduce pressure at room temperature. Ideally, leave it for a further five minutes so that if the lasagne has caught at all, it will lift easily from the pan. It’s impossible to serve this dish at all elegantly, but if you spoon it carefully from the pan, the layers should remain more or less intact.

Serve with a cooked green vegetable or salad.

Variations:

• Use 4 or 5 fresh tomatoes and 1/4 cup red wine in the sauce.
• Add extra grated cheese or "Parmegan"

Alternative cooking:

• Arrange the lasagne in a shallow oven-proof dish and cook it in a moderate oven for a quarter of an hour or so. I don’t find it needs the 45 minutes that most cookbooks recommend. In this case, you can substitute the cheese and yoghurt sauce for cheese sauce. It’s quicker and easier to make, and probably more nutritious, but due to the yoghurt, it might separate in the pressure cooker.
• Layer the lasagne into a deep frying pan, or wide saucepan. Heat over a low heat, using a flame tamer if necessary, to ensure it doesn’t catch and get burnt. Cover and cook for about 15 minutes, checking every now and then to see if the sauce has cooked, by which time it will be quite firm. In this case you can also use the cheese and yoghurt sauce.

 

 

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Cheese sauce

Although I have a recipe under Basic White Sauce, I thought that as cheese sauce is so much used and loved, maybe it should have its own post.

I have two versions here: classic cheese sauce and vegan cheese sauce. Actually, it isn’t really a classic cheese sauce, because I suggest use cornflour instead of plain flour, because I don’t think most people can be bothered to make a roux, which involves very gently flying flour in butter and then gradually adding infused milk, stirring all the time, until the sauce is cooked. It takes quite a long time for white flour to alter its personality and you need to carry on stirring, or put the sauce under an incredibly low heat until you get your perfectly cooked white sauce. You can, of course, mix and match the recipes to suit your tastes.

If you have any choice, try to use a sharp, yellow cheese, such as (real) Cheddar, Double Gloucester or Red Leicester for a fuller flavour and a more attractive appearance. I am sure there are plenty of good vegan cheeses being made on this planet, but if they exist in New Zealand, they are unavailable outside the big cities. I therefore suggest nutritional yeast in the vegan version: the advantage of using gram flour, is that it makes the sauce a pretty pale yellow colour.

I say this serves two, but of course it depends what you’re doing with it: my assumption is that you are pouring it over something life stuffed pancakes. I make suggestions for using the recipe for lasagne in the variations.

Serves 2

Ingredients

2 tbsp cornflour

1 cup milk

1 cup grated cheese

a good shake of *Worcestershire Sauce OR 1 tsp Dijon mustard

salt and pepper

Method:

• Put the cornflour into a small saucepan and add about a quarter of the milk. Stir well until the mix is smooth. Add the rest of the milk.
• Put the pan over a moderate heat and start to cook, stirring constantly. If you leave it even for a moment, once it starts to thicken, it will form lumps that are just about impossible to get rid of.
• Reduce the heat, add the cheese, Worcestershire sauce or mustard and season with salt and pepper.

Use immediately.

Vegan cheese sauce

Ingredients

1 tbsp gram flour

1 cup plant milk/water

1 tbsp nutritional yeast

1 tsp Dijon mustard

salt and pepper

Method:

• Put the gram flour into a small saucepan and add about a quarter of the milk. Stir well until the mix is smooth. This will take some time and you may prefer to use a whisk. You don't want to start cooking until you've got rid of all the lumps. Add the rest of the milk.
• Put the pan over a moderate heat and start to cook, stirring constantly. As the sauce starts to thicken lower the heat and stir vigorously. It will start to form alarming lumps, but if you keep stirring they will disappear.
• When the sauce is smooth, reduce the heat again and add the nutritional yeast and mustard and season with salt and pepper.

Use immediately.

Notes:

• * I ought to mention that Worcestershire sauce, at least the original and peerless product made by Lea & Perrin's, contains a very small amount of anchovies. Considering that you merely shake a few drops into the sauce, the amount of anchovies must be about homoeopathic, but if you take your vegetarian principles seriously, I suppose you should avoid it. Sadly, I have found all the alternative brands to be significantly inferior.
• I find the gram flour is sufficiently creamy that I don't need to add plant milk. However, you may well prefer the taste.
• You can, of course, use gram flour in the first recipe, instead of cornflour.
• If you are trying for an elegant result, use white pepper instead of black, to avoid little black flecks in the sauce.
• If you have any fresh herbs, chop them and sprinkle over the top.
• To use the sauce in a flan or lasagne, I suggest making more and making it thicker. So double the amount of flour and use one and a half times the liquid.