Aubergine, spinach and tomato casserole

I invented this dish in Trinidad, where one of the shops had a very limited supply of fresh vegetables, but they nearly always included wonderful aubergines and beautiful, local spinach. You had to buy large quantities of both, so I would cook half the spinach in a recipe one day, followed by spinach and aubergine the next day, finishing up with aubergine alone on the third. This is the recipe I invented for day two!

I can’t really give a measurement for spinach. So often you have to buy it as is: by the bunch, already tied up, or by the bag, which frequently doesn’t mention the weight. If it includes the roots, there will be more wastage than, say, baby spinach. Put it this way: a huge amount of spinach disappears into very little. For two people you would probably want as much as would fit in a 3 litre (3 quart) bowl, before it’s washed and chopped. If the spinach still has its roots on, it will want very thorough washing. Sea water is fine for this, as long as it’s clean. Give the spinach a really good shake and wait until the meal is just about cooked before adding any more salt.

Serves 2

Ingredients

1 onion

2 garlic cloves

2 tbsp olive oil

1 aubergine

1 tsp oregano

6 juniper berries

400 g/14 oz can tomatoes

spinach, well washed

grated cheese

• Chop the onion, dice the garlic and fry them in the olive oil for five minutes.
• Meanwhile, chop the aubergine into chunky pieces.
• When the onion is softened, add the aubergine and stir it round until most of it is coated in oil. (Aubergine is like blotting paper, so don’t worry too much about getting it evenly distributed.) Turn down the heat, cover and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the aubergine is soft.
• Add the oregano; crush or chop the juniper berries and add these. Pour in the tomatoes, roughly chopping them with your spoon. Roughly chop the spinach and add this. Cover and cook for a further 5 minutes.
• Take the lid off and stir everything around so that it’s all mixed together. Smooth the top and sprinkle with the grated cheese. Turn the heat right down, insert a flame tamer and cook gently until the cheese has melted.

Serve with pasta or potatoes.

Notes:

• If you can lay hands on it, vegan cheese is fine for this. It’s also good with my 'Parmegan cheese', even though that doesn’t melt. Either put it on before serving, or add it at the table. Or both! 
• A green such as chard would substitute for the spinach, but kale and cabbage would take too much cooking. If you don’t have soft greens, serve a vegetable on the side.

 

Aubergine, with pesto and pasta

Gluten free with the appropriate pasta

 

This recipe is very freely adapted from one of Jamie Oliver’s. Firstly I tweaked it so that it just made one serving, then I tweaked it again for this blog to serve two, and then I adapted it for a voyaging locker, which probably doesn’t include fresh basil, but might and, I now believe should, include a jar of pesto.

Before going any further, not all jars of pesto are created equal. Some contain a ghastly green puree, while others look like something you’d be quite proud to make yourself and have a delightful texture, just like the Real Thing. When I first came across jars of pesto, I was inclined to believe what it said on the label about having to be kept refrigerated. However, my local supermarket sells small jars at a very reasonable price and as I wanted to try out different recipes for calzone, I thought I’d probably get through the jar quite quickly, anyway. I used most of it and then out of curiosity, left the near-empty jar in my locker. it kept for months.

I was also surprised how good it tasted: the one that looked the best value, “Pam’s” is not an expensive brand, so therefore there wasn’t much chance of it being made with Extra Virgin Olive Oil, pine nuts or Pecorino cheese - all of which would be found in a traditional pesto. In fact the ingredients were canola oil, 35% basil, sunflower seeds, cheese (unspecified), garlic, sugar :-(, salt and natural flavours, so it’s rather surprising that it does taste so good, which implies that the best part of the pesto is the basil. My “Pam’s” Pesto also included three e-numbers in the ingredient list: E202 - potassium sorbate, E270 - lactic acid and E300 - ascorbic acid, and I thought that before suggesting that others put it in their lockers, I should see what these were. I had a look online and even the most hysterical of ‘health-food’ sites seemed pretty chilled about lactic and ascorbic acid. There was a bit more tooth sucking about potassium sorbate, although it is derived from sorbic acid, which occurs naturally in rowan berries. It is very commonly used in all sorts of food production and the worst that anyone had to say about it was that if it is consumed in high doses during pregnancy, it might effect the DNA. Personally, I feel quite happy about my jar of pesto: my only genuine reservation is that it contains cheese, and I prefer to eat a vegan diet. The reason I’m rabbiting on about this is because fresh basil doesn’t keep well at all - even if you have a fridge and for something like this recipe, you wouldn’t want more than a quarter of a cup, which wouldn’t use up a whole bunch. However, by all means make your own pesto if you prefer!

Serves 2

Ingredients

1 large or 2 small aubergine

olive oil

salt

4 tbsp pesto

Pecorino cheese or "Parmegan"

pasta spirals or similar

6 cherry tomatoes

black pepper

• Cut the aubergine in half. Rub it – particularly the flesh, with oil and put it on a well-oiled baking sheet. Roast it at 180° for 35 mins. Or cook it in the pressure cooker until it’s tender, cut it in half and briefly fry it in a little oil so that the flesh is lightly browned.
• While it’s cooking, cut the tomatoes in half. The original recipe says to remove the seeds, but I don’t bother. Then cut them into fine dice.
• When the aubergine is thoroughly soft, let it cool and scoop out the flesh. Chop it all up, put it into a bowl and keep warm.
• Pour the pesto over the aubergine and mix it all up. Add olive oil for taste and texture.
• Now add a little bit of cheese.
• As soon as the pasta is ready, add some of the water to the aubergines so that you have a saucy consistency.
• Mix in the tomatoes.  Grind plenty of black pepper over it.
  
• Tip in the drained pasta and serve.

Pass round extra cheese, and maybe pine nuts, chopped almonds - or sunflower seeds at the table.

Notes:

• If you have fresh basil, some leaves would be a lovely addition when the pasta is served.
• I like aubergine skin, so I generally just dice the aubergine and mix it with the pesto.
• This isn’t particularly filling, so you might want to increase the pasta from what you normally would cook, or serve it with bread, or maybe even add some cooked white beans or chickpeas to the aubergine sauce.

Aubergine and sesame pâté (Baba ganoush)

This is a delicious Middle-eastern creation, which I love. The aubergine and sesame seeds seem to be made for each other. Interestingly, both these foods are among the first crops ever to have been cultivated.

 

Occasionally, you can find jars of aubergine in brine and if you drain it well, it can be used for this pâté if fresh ones are unobtainable.

 

Serves 4 for a starter

 

1 medium aubergine

2 tbsp tahini

1 tbsp lemon juice

1/2 tsp dried, minced garlic

 salt and pepper

 olive oil

 sesame seeds

 

Method:

• Chop off the stalk and cook the aubergine. The quickest way to cook it is on your toaster, but if you have an oven, you can put it in that for 20 minutes or so. If you have neither oven nor toaster, put it in a dry frying pan over a low heat turning it occasionally. 
• When it’s completely cooked, you should easily be able to stick a toothpick into it. Don’t be impatient – the recipe won’t work if the aubergine is underdone and it doesn't matter if the skin chars a little – just scrape that bit off: it adds a delicious, smoky flavour.
• Let the aubergine cool and then dice it very finely, using a large knife. Scrape it into a mixing bowl.
• Add the tahini, lemon juice and garlic. Blend all the ingredients together with a broad-bladed knife or a fork. Season with salt and pepper.
• Transfer the pâté to a suitably-sized serving dish and smooth it down. Drizzle olive oil over the top and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Leave it for a few hours before eating, so that all the flavours can combine. 

 Variations:

•  Add 1/2 tsp gound cumin.
• Add 1/4 to 1/2 tsp cayenne. 

Mock Caviar

I may have mentioned that aubergines are one of my favourite vegetables and this recipe makes the most of their unique flavour. Russian in origin, it’s usually popular, although very conservative eaters find its taste and texture too unusual for comfort. The secret of success is to ensure that the aubergine skin is thoroughly charred – this is what gives it its distinctive, smokey taste.

Serves 4 as a starter

 

1 medium aubergine – about 250 g (8 oz)

1/2 tsp dried, minced garlic

2 tbsp olive oil

1 tsp lemon juice

salt and pepper

Method:

• Char the aubergine over a hot flame. The easiest way to do this is on your toaster, if you have one, using kitchen tongs to reposition it until all the skin is blistered and black. Lacking a toaster, you can hold it in your tongs or on the end of a fork or put it under the grill. At the end, the aubergine should be cooked through. If it isn’t (test with a toothpick) lower the heat and cook it a little longer
• Once it’s ready, cut the aubergine in half and carefully scrape the flesh away from the skin (which you don’t use), put it into a bowl and mix it to a purée with a broad-bladed knife or fork.
• Now add the olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper and blend thoroughly.
• Scrape into a crockery bowl and serve when it’s thoroughly cooled.