Peanut Chutney

 Blender alert

This isn’t what most Westerners would think of as a chutney. To us it is more of a pâté or a spread. However, it tastes surprisingly good and goes very well with lentil flatbreads. However, it’s also very acceptable as part of a ‛charcutérie’ board with bread or crackers. The tempering adds an exotic touch, but isn’t essential, especially if there are other dips and pâtés on the board.

Ingredients

1½ tsp oil

1 to 2 green chillies or dried red chillies, to taste

1½ tbsp urad dal or chana dal

1/2 cup raw peanuts, OR roasted peanuts

1/2 tsp cumin seeds

1/4 tsp of garlic OR ginger paste

1/4 tsp salt

1/2 to 3/4 cup water

1/2 tsp tamarind paste

Tempering (optional)

1 tsp oil

1/4 tsp black mustard seeds

1/4 tsp chilli flakes

1/4 tsp crushed garlic

1 pinch asafoetida/hing (omit for GF)

Method:

• Heat 1 tsp oil in a pan. Fry chillies and dal until the dal turns golden.
• Remove and set aside.
• Add peanuts and fry over a medium flame until golden and aromatic.
• Add cumin to the hot peanuts. Keep aside to cool.
• Transfer all these to a blender along with garlic/ginger, salt and 1/2 to 3/4 cup water.
• If your are using it, add the tamarind paste.
• Blend until it’s smooth.
• Taste and add more salt and chilli if required.

Tempering (optional)

• Add 1 teaspoon oil to the hot pan.
• Next add mustard, red chilli and garlic. Fry until fragrant.
• Lastly add hing.
• Turn off the heat and pour the tempering over the chutney.

Serve peanut chutney with bread, crackers or lentil flatbreads.

Notes:

• If you are using roasted and salted peanuts, don’t add any more salt until you’ve mixed and tasted the chutney.
• You can dry roast the peanuts without oil.
• Traditionally, the peanuts are dry roasted first and then the skin removed. In this case, brown the skin as well as the nut to bring out the full flavour. A compromise is to use blanched peanuts and roast them yourself. They will add a better flavour to the chutney.

Carrot chutney

Blender Alert

This is another Indian chutney, that most of us would not recognise as such, and while it may sound unpromising, it’s very good. Like the peanut chutney, it also makes a very useful spread or dip, particularly with lentil flatbreads. The tempering adds a bit more spice and an interesting appearance. If you’re serving it with bread, or crackers, along with other ‛charcuterie’, you might prefer it without. It will still be both an unusual and pleasant addition.

Makes a good cupful

1 tbsp (coconut) oil (divided) 

2 tsp chana dal OR roasted peanuts

1 tsp urad dal OR sesame seeds

2 dried red chillies (adjust to taste)

1/2 garlic paste

1/2 tsp ginger paste

1 green chilli (adjust to taste)

1/2 tsp cumin seeds

1 cup carrots (chopped, 200 grams)

1/2 tsp salt

1/8 tsp turmeric

1 to 2 tsp lemon juice OR tamarind paste

Optional Tempering

1 tsp (coconut) oil

1/4 tsp mustard seeds

1/2 tsp cumin seeds

1/4 tsp chilli flakes

1/4 tsp garlic paste

1 pinch hing (asafoetida)

Method

• Pour 1 teaspoon oil to a hot pan. Add chana dal, urad dal and red chillies to the hot oil and fry until the dal turns light golden.
• Add garlic, ginger and green chillies. Fry until the dal turns deep golden to light brown. Add cumin seeds, stir and remove all of the fried ingredients to a plate.
• To the same pan, pour 2 teaspoons oil. Add carrots, salt and turmeric. Stir fry on a medium high heat for 3 to 4 minutes until fragrant. Covered and cook for 2 to 3 minutes or until tender. Turn off the heat and cool.
• Add the cooled dal, ginger, garlic, chillies and cumin to a blender and make a slightly coarse powder.
• Add the cooked carrots and tamarind paste/lemon juice. Pour in 1/4 cup water. Blend to a smooth or coarse chutney to suit your liking, scraping the sides as you go.
• Taste and add more salt if you think it needs it.
• Adjust the consistency to suit with more water, if you want to.

To temper (optional)

• Heat oil in a pan. Add the mustard seeds, cumin seeds, chilli flakes and garlic paste. Fry until the cumin seeds have changed colour and the spices smell fragrant. Add hing and turn off.
• Pour the tempering over the carrot chutney.

Notes:

• Leave out the hing for GF.
• Chana dal and urad dal are added for flavour and taste. However, for a change, you can use roasted, skinned peanuts and white sesame seeds. Both work well but the chutney tastes different. Most of us have salted peanuts on board and these can be used, but in that case, add the salt after you’ve blended the chutney so as not to over-salt it.
• You could make this without a blender, if you used peanuts and sesame seeds and either chopped the peanuts, or ground both in a Mouli. The other ingredients would need to be cooked until they were very soft and you might want to use a little cayenne pepper and ground cumin instead of the whole spices. This would end up a little more chunky, but none the worse for that.
• Use young juicy carrots and not old, tough ones. If they need peeling, rather than scrubbing, they won’t go well in this chutney. 
• Ginger and garlic: I love both, but you can skip one of them if you prefer. The chutney is quite delicately flavoured, so follow the recipe and don’t use too much.
• Chillies: Dried chillies add pungent flavours and heat while the fresh green chillies add heat. You can use one or the other, if you prefer. I use green chillies in brine due to the insane expense of fresh ones (in New Zealand).

Lentil flatbread

Blender Alert

These are a lazy way of making dosas, which require a particular type of split lentil (urad dal) and fermenting overnight, in a warm place, which often isn’t practical when voyaging. Unfortunately, they do need a blender. In due course, I’ll have a recipe for chickpea flour flatbreads that don’t need one. I have tried making these by grinding the lentils to make flour, but they weren't as successful as using the soaked lentils in this recipe.

These ‛flatbreads’ are halfway between a roti and a thick pancake, but are great hot or cold and excellent to serve with any sort of spread, pâté or dip, including some of the chutneys you will find on this blog. This recipe has minimal seasoning, so as not to compete with whatever you are serving them with, but fenugreek seeds are often used in traditional recipes, so I have included them.

I find the 150 mm/6 inch frying pan I use for tempering spices is perfect for cooking these flatbreads. Any pan that you trust for pancakes will be correct for these.

Makes 8 flatbreads

Ingredients

 

1/2 cup moong dal OR split red lentil

1 cup water

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds

 1/2 tsp baking powder

oil

 

Method:

• Put the dal into the blender jug and add the water, fenugreek and salt.
• Add baking powder if you want a fluffier flatbread.
• Leave to soak for at least an hour. (Use hot water to speed things up, if necessary).
• Once the dal is well-soaked, blend everything into a smooth, thick batter. If it’s still a bit gritty, leave for another quarter of an hour and then blend again.
• Heat the pan and when you think it’s hot enough, dribble a drop of batter into it. It should instantly start to set.
• If you think it may need it, add a tiny amount of oil to your pan and swirl it around. Now add 2 tbsp batter, tipping the pan so that it covers the base, or spreads itself into a 150 mm/6 inch disc.
• Cook until the surface looks dry and then flip the flatbread or turn it using a spatula. Cook for another half minute or so and move to a plate.
• Add a little more oil if necessary and then continue cooking all the batter until it’s used up.

Notes:

• The flatbreads can be kept warm in a low oven, if you have one, or between two warmed plates.
• These flatbreads are equally good warm or cold. To reheat them, stack them in your frying pan and cover with a lid. Put them over a low heat. After a few minutes, turn the stack over. The heat should spread through all of them.

Variations:

• Add coriander, cumin, nigella, chilli, or any other spice that takes your fancy to add more flavour.
• Omit the fenugreek and use herbs such as oregano or rosemary, and use instead of bread or rolls.
• Add a generous amount of garlic to the batter, and drizzle the warm flatbread with a well-flavoured olive oil before serving.

Mushroom and cauliflower soup

 

I created this soup one winters’ night, when I had a few mushrooms left in the locker, and was growing tired of an everlasting cauliflower that I'd bought. It was, I admit, a huge one, but as it was the same price as the other ones, which were two-thirds the size, and super-expensive to boot, I went for the best value for money. I love cauliflower, but after 6 consecutive nights of eating it, I was ready for a change.

When I'm looking at recipes on line, I often see people suggesting puréeing cauliflower to make a thick and creamy sauce. I thought I’d try this idea, to save mixing up a nut cream – and also out of curiosity. The resulting soup was delicious – better than I’d hoped for – and I had the added satisfaction of cooking it on my little fire. It is therefore very much a cream of mushroom soup. With a slice or two of home-made longevity bread, it made a filling and warming meal.

 

Serves 4 as a starter, 2 as a main course

Ingredients

 

4 or 5 large mushrooms or the equivalent if smaller

1 bay leaf

4 cups water

1 onion, chopped

1 large clove garlic

olive oil

approx 2 cups cauliflower florets

1/2 tsp ground coriander

1/4 tsp za’atar or dried thyme

1/2 tsp mushroom stock powder

grated nutmeg

salt and pepper

Method:

• Cut the mushrooms into chunks – about the size of a small, button mushroom.
• Put a cup of water into a large saucepan, together with a bay leaf and the mushrooms and bring to the boil.
• Simmer gently for a few minutes while you chop the onion and garlic.
• Pour the mushrooms and water into a bowl and set aside.
• Using the same pan, heat the olive oil and then add the onion and garlic. Fry gently for about 5 minutes until translucent. Turn down the flame if they’re starting to colour.
• In the meantime, divide the cauliflower into florets and dice any stem that you’ve cut off in the process. Add to the pan when the onions are softened.
  Add in the ground coriander and stir everything around until the cauliflower is evenly coated.
  
• Pour in the remaining three cups of water together with the water that the mushrooms have been sitting in. Leave the mushrooms to one side.
• Now add the za’atar or thyme and mushroom stock powder, if you have any. Bring to the boil and then simmer over a moderate heat until the cauliflower is completely softened.
• When it's cooked, mash the soup into a thick purée, or use a stick blender.
• Return to the heat and add the mushrooms. Grate over nutmeg and add salt and pepper to taste. Be generous with the black pepper – the soup can take it.

Note:

• Add some dried mushrooms to the water, with the fresh mushrooms for increased depth of flavour.
   
  
  
  

Cream of asparagus soup

This luxurious soup can be made from whole asparagus. However, the following recipe allows you to have your asparagus and eat it, so to speak, because it’s made from the trimmings.

The best way to trim asparagus is to bend each stalk as close to its base as you can. It will snap off just above the tough section.

Use 1/3 seawater to 2/3 fresh, if the sea is clean, and leave out the salt.

Serves 4 as a first course

Ingredients

 

The trimmings from a bundle of asparagus

2 cups water

1 onion

1 garlic clove

1/4 cup tbsp butter/olive oil

1 tbsp flour*

salt and pepper

1 tbsp lemon juice

 fresh parsley, if available

6 tbsp thick (vegan) cream

Method:

• Cook the trimmed asparagus: put it on a raised trivet in your pressure cooker, so that it isn’t immersed, and pour in 2 cups water. (You could stand it on end to do this, but might need to cut it to size.) Bring to pressure and cook for 1 minute. Reduce pressure rapidly if you like crisp asparagus, naturally if you like it soft. Put the asparagus to one side for another dish. Pour the water into a jug or bowl and set aside.
• Cut the trimmings into 2 cm/1 in lengths.
• Finely dice the onion and garlic. Melt the butter/oil in the pressure cooker, add the onion and garlic and stir it until it’s all covered in melted butter. Lower the heat, cover the pan and cook gently for about 5 minutes until the vegetables are softened.
• Stir in the flour and mix.
• Add the reserved water that you used to cook the asparagus, together with the trimmings. Bring to pressure and cook for 10 minutes.
• Reduce pressure naturally and then mash with a potato masher. Then pass the resulting purée through a sieve to remove any stringy bits. Alternatively blend with a stick blender or food processor
• Return to the pan and season with salt and pepper. Taste and add the lemon juice and more water if you think it can take it.
• Add the parsley and bring back to the boil.
• Remove from the heat and stir in the cream.

Serve with croutons

 

Note:

*Use 1 tbsp gram flour for gluten free.

 

Variations:

• If you like to have bits of asparagus floating around in your soup, trim pieces from the ends of the cooked stalks and add these with the lemon juice.
• For a really thick and luxurious version, use all the asparagus.
  
• This soup can also be made successfully with canned asparagus. Purée the bottom ends of the stalks and keep the tips to chop up and add to the soup with the lemon juice.
  

Croutons

Home-made croutons are about as different from the packaged version sold to decorate your Cæsar Salad, as home-made bread is from white sliced. They only take a few minutes to make and their crunchy texture ideally complements creamy soups. If you are having soup for lunch or as a substantial starter, they add bulk without being overly filling and make a pleasant change from bread and crackers. They're also an excellent way to use up stale bread.

Serves 2 for a meal, 4 for a starter

Ingredients

 

2 slices bread, about 1 cm (1/2 in) thick

2 tbsp olive oil OR 1 tbsp olive oil and 1 tsp butter

Method:

• Cut the bread into cubes.
• Heat some oil in a frying pan over a high heat. Test by dropping in one of the croutons: it should sizzle straight away. Don’t be impatient. If the oil is too cool, you will end up with oily, soggy bread cubes. Put the bread cubes into the pan and spread them out in an even layer. Cook them in batches, if needs be – they want to be one layer thick to make it easy to move them around.
• Turn them regularly until they are golden on at least two sides: lower the heat if they are threatening to burn.
• Remove with a perforated spoon – they cook far too quickly to fool around with tongs – and place in a bowl, lined with a kitchen towel, if you wish.

Notes:

• Croutons are best cooked when the soup is ready to serve, so that they retain their crispness.
• If you are happy doing so, you can deep fry them.

Variations:

• Add 1 tsp curry paste or powder to the cooking oil.
• Fry a diced garlic clove with the bread.

Carrot and lemon soup

Not a main-course soup, but a very pleasant starter. Carrots and lemons combine together beautifully and the coriander complements both.

Use 1/3 seawater to 2/3 fresh, if the sea is clean, and leave out the salt. 

Serves 4 as a starter

 

Ingredients

 

1 onion

6 carrot

2 tbsp butter OR 1 tbsp olive oil

2 tbsp gram flour

2 tsp ground coriander

3 cups water

1 tsp grated lemon rind

2 tbsp lemon juice

salt and pepper

chopped parsley

Method:

• Dice the onion and carrots. Fry gently in the butter for about 10 minutes in a covered pan. Stir every minute or so and don’t let them brown.
• When the vegetables are soft, add the coriander and stir it in. Mix the gram flour with 1/4 cup of water and add it to the pan, stirring it carefully so that everything is blended .
• Add 3/4 cup of water and mix again.
• Pour in the rest of the water and the lemon rind, if you have any. Bring to the boil, cover and simmer gently for 20 – 25 minutes until the vegetables are thoroughly softened.
• Mash to a purée with a potato masher, or use a stick blender, and season with salt and pepper.
• Add the lemon juice, reheat and serve sprinkled with chopped parsley, if you have any.

Cauliflower soup

I first came across this soup in Norway in 1985 and have loved it ever since. Although using a cauliflower for soup may seem rather extravagant, you can usually get two meals out of a very large one and make use of the stem, to boot. I love this soup; it has a delicate, creamy flavour, which is even more delicious if you can make it with butter rather than olive oil. I like to serve it with herb bread.

If you have any choice, try to use a floury potato for this soup; for once, it should be peeled because the soup should end up as a thick, greeny-white purée, which would be less attractive with bits of potato skin.

Use 1/3 seawater to 2/3 fresh, if the sea is clean, and leave out the salt.

 

Serves 4 to 6 as a starter, 2 for a main course

 

Ingredients

 

2 tbsp butter OR olive oil/1 onion, diced

1 large potato, peeled and chopped

1 small or half a large cauliflower

2½ cups water

1 tsp salt

2½ cups (plant) milk/pepper

grated nutmeg

 

Method: 

• Melt the butter/oil in a large saucepan.
• Add the onion and potato and cook gently until they’re softened. Don’t let them brown because the soup is meant to end up white.
• When you can easily stick the point of a knife into the potatoes, break the cauliflower into the pan. Dice the stalk. Don’t use the leaves – they’re too dark. You can, however, use their white stems.
• Add the water and salt and bring to the boil. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes, by which time the cauliflower should be thoroughly cooked.
• Take a potato masher or stick blender and purée the soup.
• Pour in the milk and bring back to simmering point for a few more minutes, adding generous amounts of pepper.
• Pour into warmed bowls and grated nutmeg over before serving.

Variations: 

• Replace some of the milk with cream for an extra luxurious soup.
• Sprinkle the soup with toasted, flaked almonds.

Italian chickpea Soup

This is a substantial and well-flavoured soup, suitable for winter lunches or a main meal. It would go very well with sun-dried tomato bread. The ingredients are not really voyaging vegetables, but they keep reasonably well and you would still be able to make this soup a week into your passage.

 

Use 1/3 seawater to 2/3 fresh, if the sea is clean, and leave out the salt.

Serves at least 8 as a starter, 2 or 3 for a main course

Ingredients

 

3 large sticks of celery

1 leek

1 cup chickpeas, soaked

5 cups boiling stock or water

2 bay leaves

1½ tsp oregano

3/4 tsp rosemary

1/4 tsp chilli

14 oz/400 g tin of diced tomatoes

 handful of finely chopped fresh basil or parsley, or 1 tsp dried basil

2 tsp balsamic vinegar

salt and pepper

Method:

• Thinly slice the celery.
• Trim the leek, removing the root end and any discoloured outer leaves; trim the top. Slice thinly, washing any slices that have grit or soil lodged in them.
• Drain the chickpeas and put them in your pressure cooker, together with the water/stock, celery, leek, bay leaves, oregano, rosemary and chilli.
• Bring to pressure over a high heat and then cook at high pressure for 20 minutes. Reduce pressure naturally.
• Remove the bay leaves and discard. With a slotted spoon, take out 4 or 5 spoons of chickpeas and put them in a bowl together with half the tomatoes. Mash together to thicken the soup.
• Put the tomato/chickpea mix back in the pressure cooker together with the parsley or basil and the vinegar. Season with salt and pepper.
• Simmer for a further few minutes so that the tomato flavour permeates the whole and serve hot. 

Variations:

• Add (vegan) Parmesan cheese at the table.
• Try using butter beans instead of the chickpeas

Corn Chowder

This recipe is a vegetarian replacement for fish chowder and I think that it is equally good: it’s rich and filling – definitely a main-course soup when served with hunks of bread. For all that, it would make a good starter, if you followed it with a light main course.

Use 1/3 seawater to 2/3 fresh, if the sea is clean, and leave out the salt.

 

Serves 4 to 6 as a starter, 2 for a main course

Ingredients

1 onion, chopped
1 garlic clove
4 mushrooms, sliced
1 green pepper, chopped
2 potatoes, diced
2 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp gram flour
2½ cups water OR vegetable stock
1 cup (vegan) milk
400 g (14 oz) can sweetcorn
1/2 tsp cracked black pepper
salt
1 cup (vegan) single cream

Method:

• Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan and add the onion, garlic, mushrooms and green pepper. Don’t let them brown – the soup is meant to be very pale. If you prefer, you can ‛sauté’ them in a little water until they are softened, and then add the olive oil.
• While this is happening, peel and chop the potatoes. (If you prefer not to peel them that’s fine, but the bits of peel do rather spoil the appearance of the soup.) Add to the pan, stir and fry for a few minutes. Lower the heat, cover and cook for about 5 minutes.
• Put 1/2 cup of the water in a mixing cup, add the gram flour and whisk to a smooth paste.
• Add this to the pan, together with the rest of the water. Stir gently until the soup is about to boil, so that the gram flour is properly incorporated.
• Lower the heat and cook until the potatoes are tender – about 10 minutes.
• Add the sweetcorn and the milk; reheat until boiling. 
• Stir in the cream and reheat just before serving.

Variation:

• 1/2 tsp paprika or chilli adds variety
• If you can get hold of any, a handful of chopped, fresh parsley added with the cream is delicious.
• Use dried mushrooms, soaked in a little hot water for half an hour, to turn this into a voyaging soup.
  

Note: 

• Although the potatoes serve to thicken the chowder, they should not disintegrate and disappear. If you can only get very floury potatoes, this is unavoidable, but they won't spoil the flavour of your creation.

Split lentil and carrot soup

The sweetness of carrots marries well with lentils and lemon, and the soup comes out a very pretty orange colour. This recipe is intended for a starter – main course lentil soup is generally thicker than this.

Use 1/3 seawater to 2/3 fresh, if the sea is clean, and leave out the salt.

 

Serves 4 as a starter

Ingredients

 

1 large onion 

1 tbsp olive oil

1 tsp crushed coriander seeds

3 carrots

3/4 cup split lentils

4 cups water/stock

2 tbsp lemon juice

salt and pepper

Method:

• Dice the onion.
• Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan and add the onion. Cover and cook over a low heat for 5 minutes.
• Meanwhile, dice the carrots, scraping them if necessary. Add the coriander and cook for a further minute, then add the carrots and lentils and stir well.
• Pour in the water and bring to the boil, stirring occasionally. Cover, lower the heat and cook for 25 minutes, by which time the lentils should have disintegrated and the carrots should be completely softened. Give them a little longer, if necessary.
• Take off the heat and mash into a purée, using a potato masher or a stick blender. Add the lemon juice and season to taste. Add a little more lemon if you prefer it to be slightly sharper.
• Reheat before serving.

Variations:

• A tbsp of tomato purée makes a pleasant change.
• Add a swirl of cream to each bowl.
• Use lime or orange juice instead of the lemon.
• Garnish with some twists of the appropriate peel.

Split lentil soup

Warming, filling, nutritious and comforting: lentil soup is one of my favourites. It’s also very quick to make and is ideal for lunch or as a starter when unexpected guests arrive and you have to spread your dinner further than anticipated!

Use 1/3 seawater to 2/3 fresh, if the sea is clean, and leave out the salt.

 

Serves 4 to 6 as a starter, 2 for a main course

Ingredients

1 tbsp olive oil OR butter
1 onion 

1 cup split red lentils 

4 cups water 

2 tbsp lemon juice 

salt and pepper

Method:

• Heat the oil in a large saucepan or pressure cooker. Chop the onion and cook it for about 5 minutes until it has started to brown.
• Stir in the lentils, add the water and bring to the boil. If you are using the pressure cooker, cook it for 5 minutes; if cooking conventionally, simmer for about 20 minutes.
• Reduce pressure naturally. Using a potato masher or stick blender, purée the soup. Season with salt and plenty of black pepper and add the lemon juice. Serve piping hot.

• Variations: 
• Add 1/2 tsp cumin and a garlic clove with the onion.
• Chop a carrot and cook it with the onion.
• For a delicious, quick Curried Lentil Soup, add one garlic clove and some diced fresh ginger to the onion while it’s frying. Stir in 2 tsp curry powder/paste just before adding the lentils. Serve with chapatis.

 Note:

• You can make this soup thicker and more substantial by adding another 1/2 cup of lentils.
  

The (Very) Acceptable Ovenless Loaf

 

I came to realise that my vision of perfection (The Perfect Ovenless Loaf) might be difficult for others, as well as myself, to achieve.  Indeed, unless you want square slices of bread (and there are many good reasons for this preference), assembling the necessary hardware might seem more trouble than it's worth.  I've written this post to offer a couple of different options for those of us who want to make bread regularly and don't have an oven, one using a frying pan and one using a saucepan.  Oddly, they produce very different results.

First of all, let's make the dough.  You can use just about any dough recipe for either method.

For a 230 mm/9 in frying pan or a 2 l/1 qt saucepan

2 cups wholewheat flour 

½ tsp salt 

1 tsp instant dried yeast 

1 cup lukewarm water, no warmer than 45°C (110°F) 

½ tsp sugar/honey 

2 tbsp vital wheat gluten

Method:

• Make the dough, following the instructions for Basic bread.  I  recommend using the vital wheat gluten, if you have it, because the cooking process isn't ideal. 
• The dough needs to be a firm one: if it's to soft, the loaf will simply spread itself all over the bottom of the frying pan and that isn't what we are trying to achieve.
  
• Take it out of the bowl and form a roughly circular loaf, which covers a half to two-thirds of the pan base.
  

Frying pan bread

I use a heavy, non-stick alloy pan for this (not Teflon coated!)  But you can also use any really well-seasoned frying pan that you're sure your bread won't stick to.  If your bowl doesn't sit securely on the frying pan, it would be worth getting a lid that fits, preferably one that doubles the useable height of the pan. You also want a fairly deep frying pan, which are anyway more generally useful than a shallow one.

• Put the dough in the frying pan and cover it with your lid or bowl.  Let the bread rise.
• When it’s ready to cook, put the frying pan over a high heat on a flame tamer, and cook for 15 minutes. If you smell burning, reduce the heat, if you can’t smell baking bread, increase it. The flame tamer ensures that the heat radiates across the base of the pan and this avoids spot burning.  Again, use your bowl as a lid.  If the bowl seems precarious and you don't have a domed lid, put on our usual lid and accept that the bread will be flatter than you might have chosen.  This is, after all, an acceptable ovenless loaf.
  
• After 15 minutes, turn the flame down to moderate and cook for a further 20 to 30 minutes.  After 20 minutes, take off the lid and check the loaf.  If the top is still very soft, cook it longer, checking every 5 minutes.  You won't get a hard crust on it.  Once you've cooked it this way a few times, you'll get a feel for how long it takes.
  
• Once the bread feels pretty firm, ie almost cooked, you are now going to spoil this rather nice wee loaf by turning it upside down to brown what was the top.  Even though it's almost cooked, the weight of it will flatten the loaf.  There's not much we can do about that.
• Pop the lid back on, give it about 5 minutes and then turn off the heat.  Rremove the lid and just leave the loaf in place until the frying pan is just warm.  Take the loaf out and cool it on a rack (I use my toaster).

If everything has gone according to plan, you will end up with a loaf of smaller diameter but greater height than the frying pan.  In fact I often see 'artisan' rye breads that don't look very different from how this one ends up.   Regardless, it will be delicious bread, incredibly good value and better than anything a small income voyager can buy unless they're some place where wholemeal bread is subsidised (as it used to be in the Azores, many moons ago).  The major drawback of frying pan bread is that the narrow slices are not ideal for sandwiches. 

 

Note:

• You can make really first-class rolls in the frying pan.  Use the bread recipe above and form it into rolls.  Put them in the pan so that they aren't touching and let them rise.  Then cook as above.  They will spread in to one another, but are easily separated.

Saucepan bread

 

This produces a Very Acceptable Ovenless loaf, and is now my preferred method of making a loaf.  It comes out with a really good crust all round and is of a suitable size for sandwiches.  For this method, you need a high-quality, straight-sided, heavy-based pan that has no hot spots.  Be careful if it has a laminated base - it might not take kindly to being used as an oven.  Although you can use the saucepan lid, the ideal is to use is a non-stick, cast alloy, 150 mm/6 in frying pan.  I generally use this for roasting Indian spices, but have found it very useful for many other purposes.  It doesn't take up much room.  (Mine is made by Avanti - it's a great little pan, but is totally let down by the so-called enamel, which I suspect is powder-coating and stained, irrevocably, the first time I used it.  I wish I'd bought the black version.)  If you use the pan's lid, oil that, too.  The saucepan I think is a nominal one litre/quart pan, but I've given the actual dimensions for the avoidance of doubt.

 

For a 150 mm/6 in saucepan, 70 mm/3 in deep

1 1/2 cups wholewheat flour 

½ tsp salt 

1 tsp instant dried yeast 

1 cup lukewarm water, no warmer than 45°C (110°F) 

½ tsp sugar/honey

 2 tbsp vital wheat gluten

 

Method:

• Grease or oil your pan.  I was given some hemp oil and use that.  It's expensive to buy, but is very thick and is the best I've found for this purpose.  I suppose you could also line the pan with parchment paper to make it easier to turn out the loaf, but you probably won't get any crust on the sides of the loaf.
• Make the dough as above.  This time you can make it slightly softer if you want and I recommend using the honey - the slightly softer, well-rise loaf seems to suit this cooking best.  I always use vital wheat gluten if it's available.
  
• Put the dough in the pan and press it down to fit.  Put the lid on and let the bread rise.  One of the nice things with this method, is that you can easly put the pan in the sun! 
  
• When it’s ready to cook, put  flame tamer over a high heat and place the pan on it.  As soon as you smell burning, reduce the heat to moderate.  You want to be able to smell the bread baking, but you don't want to burn the base.  Condensation will form inside the lid - very apparent if you have a glass lid - which is why this loaf turns out quite differently: it is partly steamed.  The crumb will be quite a lot softer than that of the frying pan bread.  The same applies if you're using the frying pan lid.
  
  
  
  
• Cook for a total of 30 minutes and then take the lid off and gently press the dough to see if it's firm. If not, give it another 5 minutes and try again.  I can't really be much more specific because cookers (and pans!) vary so much.  Once you've cooked it this way a few times, you'll get a feel for how long it takes.
  
  
  
  
• Once the bread feels almost cooked, take hold of both handles firmly, and invert the pan over the frying pan.  Now brown the top in the frying pan for 5 minutes or so.
• Alternatively, if you are using the pan lid: ease it off the loaf (hopefully, it won't have risen so much that the dough stuck to it) and lower the heat right down under the flame tamer.  We now want to brown the top of it.  Turn the pan upside down, carefully.   If your pan is non-stick, really well greased, or you've used parchment paper, the loaf will slip out of the pan.  Put it down carefully, return the pan to the heat and put the loaf back into the pan upside down. Put it back over the heat with the lid on for 5 minutes or so.  If, as usually happens to me, the loaf is still stuck to the pan, place the whole lot  over the flame tamer for about 5 minutes.  Hopefully, the loaf hasn't risen above the pan, because in this case it will burn.  If that's the case, you might want to put it on your toaster, or simply forgo browning the top. 
• Once the loaf is browned, shake it out of the pan and put it to cool it on a rack (I use my toaster).  If it's reluctant to come out, leave it to cool down a bit and try to persuade it out by running a knife, with a rounded end around the loaf.  If you leave it too long, the sides and bottom of the loaf will go a bit soggy.  Don't tear it up getting it out.  If the worst comes to the worst, you can always dry it out over the toaster.  Again, you will soon learn the way that suits both your pan and your cooker.

This loaf comes out much higher than the frying pan loaf and is more suited to sandwiches, and toast.

Minestrone soup

The name ‘Minestrone’ has become something of a catch-all for a tomato, vegetable and pasta soup. I don’t pretend that the following version is any more authentic than most, but it certainly is attractive and full of flavour. I usually use black-eyed peas, because they enrich the colour of the soup, but it’s equally good made with whole lentils or chick pea(s).

Use 1/3 seawater to 2/3 fresh, if the sea is clean, and leave out the salt.

 

Serves 4 to 6 as a starter, 2 for a main course

 

Ingredients

2 tbsp olive oil
2 onions
2 garlic cloves
1 carrot
1 stick celery OR 1 tsp celery seed
4 cups water
1/4 cup black-eyed peas
1 cup chopped cabbage
a piece of Pamesan cheese rind

14 oz/400 g tin of chopped tomatoes

2 tsp Annie's Mixed Herbs

about 20 lengths of spaghetti

salt and pepper

 Parmesan cheese

Method:

• Heat the olive oil in the pressure cooker.
• Chop the onions and garlic and cook over a fairly high heat until they’re starting to brown. 
• While this is happening, dice the carrot and the celery (seed). Add to the other vegetables. 
• Pour in the water, add the black-eyed peas and bring to the boil. Pressure cook for 10 minutes. Reduce pressure gradually. 
• When you can safely remove the lid, add the chopped cabbage to the pan. Return it to the flame. If you’re using the Parmesan cheese rind, cut this into small dice and add. 
• Empty the tomatoes into the pan and mix them in.
•  Now add the herbs and stir thoroughly. 
• When the soup is boiling once more, lower the heat to a simmer, break the spaghetti into 25 mm (1 in) lengths and add this. Stir to separate the pieces of pasta.
• Add salt and pepper. Minestrone responds well to ½ tsp of cracked black pepper. Taste after a couple of minutes to see if it needs more salt.
• Cook until the spaghetti has softened – you can bring it back up to pressure for 3 minutes if you wish.
• Serve with chunks of bread and, if you have it, plenty of Parmesan cheese.

Variations:

• Use cannellini beans instead of the black-eyed beans. These will need soaking first. Or you could use a can.
• Replace the cabbage with kale
• Add 2 tbsps of freeze-dried peas
• Add chopped pepper to taste
• Replace the celery with 1 tsp celery seed
• Use chopped tomatoes in purée for a thicker soup.
• Add 1/4 tsp dried chilli flakes
  

Note:

• Vegans can use home-made vegan "Parmesan" cheese!

Mushroom soup

 

Mushroom soup is lovely and because mushrooms are often something of a luxury, is worth making with extra love and care. There are several variations on the theme, which I give below. The initial recipe is adapted from one of Rose Elliot’s and produces a very elegant concoction, ideal for entertaining. The ones that follow are a little more down to earth.

Butter gives a richer flavour than olive oil.

Use 1/3 seawater to 2/3 fresh, if the sea is clean, and leave out the salt.

 

Serves 4 for a starter, 2 for a main meal

 

Ingredients

 

3 cups mushrooms

1 small onion

1 garlic clove

1/2 tsp tarragon

1 tsp green peppercorns, crushed

2½ cups water

(vegan) milk

4 tbsp butter OR 2 tbsp olive oil

3 tbsp flour

salt

freshly grated nutmeg

hot sauce/cracked black pepper

2 tbsp sherry

Method:

• Remove the stalks from the mushrooms and put them in a large saucepan, together with the quartered onion, garlic clove, tarragon and green peppercorns. Add the water and bring to the boil; leave to simmer for at least 10 minutes to create a stock.
• Pour the liquid through a sieve into a measuring jug and make up to a litre with the milk. Discard the mushroom stalks, etc.
• Put half the butter/olive oil into the saucepan and, when it melts, stir in the flour and mix it for a few moments. Remove the pan from the heat, pour in the contents of the jug and stir until everything is thoroughly blended. Make sure that all the flour and butter mixture is cleared away from the corners of the pan.
• Return the pan to the heat and bring to the boil, stirring continually. Lower the heat and continue to stir for another 2 or 3 minutes to cook the flour. Put to one side.
• Slice the mushrooms and fry them lightly in the remaining half of the butter. When they’re softened, add them to the milk mixture in the saucepan.
• Reheat to a gentle simmer while carefully seasoning with the salt, nutmeg and hot sauce/cracked black pepper
• Simmer for a further 3 or 4 minutes to let the flavours blend. Better still, make the soup several hours before you need it and let it stand, with a lid on, until you want to eat it. Reheat just to boiling and serve with a dollop of sherry in each bowl. 

Variations:

• For a simpler and quicker soup, dice the onion and garlic and fry it in the butter until soft. Chop the mushrooms and cook them for a few minutes. Add 1 tbsp cornflour, 2 cups water and 2 cups milk. Stir until the cornflour is dissolved and then add the tarragon and green peppercorns. Bring to the boil, stirring constantly, season and then simmer for 5 minutes. You can still serve this with the sherry!
• Try making a Lentil and Mushroom soup: Add half a cup of whole lentils.  Use a standard onion, garlic clove, half the butter or olive oil, the tarragon and green peppercorns, 4 cups water and seasoned salt. Fry the vegetables, add the tarragon and green peppercorns, then throw in the lentils and cook under pressure for 10 minutes. Mash the soup with a potato masher or stick blender and then season with the salt.
• For Mushroom and Potato soup: use a chopped onion, 3 cups sliced mushrooms, 4 chopped potatoes, a litre of water, salt and pepper. Fry the vegetables, add the water, bring to pressure and cook for 5 minutes. Mash lightly to thicken the soup and season. You can substitute milk for up to half the water if you want; or stir in cream after the soup is cooked.
• Use brandy instead of sherry

Notes:

• While this soup is also good with oyster mushrooms, I don’t recommend cremini, portobello or Swiss mushrooms, which make the soup too dark.
• To make this soup gluten free, use 1 tbsp cornflour instead of the flour.