Risotto

Edited 26/5/25

 

Risotto is something that I’ve come to since living on my own, because it isn’t the sort of rib-sticking tack that my skippers would have liked. I adore it. 

For a long time I couldn’t get it just right. I kept reading all different recipes; I carefully kept my stock hot and ladled it assiduously into the pan, just like the maestros told me to, but the rice never seemed really to cook through and I never got the creamy consistency that the cookery books raved about: I think all the variables of heat, pan size and quantity are very important and unless you cook the same amount in the same pan each time, there's a lot of trial and error.  Keeping the water/stock hot is a further complication.  Moreover, some recipes imply that you heat up more water/stock than might be called for, and pouring water away on a boat, is a capital crime!  Finally, however, I came across a complete iconoclast who cooked her risotto in the pressure cooker and, moreover, she assured me that so do lots of Italian cooks, who, I assume prefer to sit down with the rest of the white wine, rather than standing over the risotto pot, ladling and stirring for three-quarters of an hour. So I tried it, and since then I have produced what I consider to be perfect risotto (although I have to admit that the one in the photo is a bit dry)!  You will have to experiment a bit to get the timing just right: the usual caveat about how long it takes your PC to get up to pressure and at what pressure it cooks applies as usual.

 

I have tried it with short-grain brown rice, rather than arborio, but the result has been disappointing.  From what I have read, risotto is meant to be of a creamy consistency, so it shouldn't stand up on its own, moulded on the plate.  Nor should it have any cream in it - the creaminess comes from the starch in the rice - and really, not even that much cheese.  The Italians are firm believers in Less is More.

 

Jamie Oliver adds lots of celery to his risotto and very good it is too. However, celery is not the sort of thing that most voyagers carry, because it comes in large quantities and doesn’t keep that well. Instead I have gone for a unique Annie touch (or so I would like to think) and use fennel seeds. Very Italian and very voyager friendly.  I also occasionally add celery seeds, too, in a nod to Mr Oliver.  Classic risotto recipes use neither, however, so feel free to leave them out if you prefer.

 

What follows is the basic recipe with the usual variations at the end.   Although I see a lot of recipes include vegetables early in the cooking process, traditionally most appear to be added at the end.  I dare say that's because after all the stirring, etc, the veg would be mashed.  However, with those that will re-heat quickly like mushrooms, it's better to pre-fry them with the onion and garlic and then set aside.  I usually sprinkle in some of my mushroom stock powder, just before adding the water and recommend it, but if you only have commercial stock you can use that, in which case go carefully with your salt.  If you don't particularly want to fry your vegetable of choice, for example if you're making, for example green bean risotto, partially cook the beans first and use the cooking water for stock.  But in reality – just go for it!

 

Please check the Notes before cooking :-) 

Basic Risotto

 

Serves 2

 

Ingredients

 

A knob of butter and/or olive oil

1 onion, diced

2 cloves of garlic crushed and diced

1/2 tsp fennel seeds

1/2 tsp celery seed

2/3 cup short grain (ideally Carnaroli or Arborio) rice

1/2 cup white wine (or, in desperate circumstances, water)

1 1/3 cups stock/cooking water/water

salt and pepper

extra hot water/stock

1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese or 'Parmegan' 

 

Method:

• Heat the oil and/or butter in the pressure cooker and then add the onion and garlic. Cook gently until softened, but don’t let them brown.
• Add the fennel seeds and/or celery, if you're using them and quickly mix them in.
• Add the rice and stir it around for a few minutes until it’s thoroughly heated and covered in the oil and onion mixture.  It should be starting to turn translucent and to crackle slightly.
• Pour in the wine and continue stirring until it has evaporated.
• Now add the water/stock/cooking water from your vegetable of choice, or water and stock powder; stir to ensure that everything is covered in liquid and well mixed.  
• Put on the lid and bring up to pressure.
• Cook for 5-7 minutes and allow the pressure to reduce naturally.
• Meanwhile, grate the cheese and heat up about a cup of water.
• Remove the lid and gently stir the risotto. Add salt and pepper and taste it. The risotto should be of a creamy consistency that flows rather than stands on its own. If it looks a bit dry, add some of your hot water and mix carefully.
• Add the Parmesan/Parmegan and gently mix it in.  Taste to see if you've added sufficient.
• *  At this stage, add your partially-cooked vegetables and mix carefully again.
  Put the lid back on and either let the vegetables reheat in the hot risotto for a few minutes, or put the pan back over a very low heat, if you are worried the risotto might cool down too much.  Give the consistency one final check adding more hot water/stock if necessary and serve straight away, with more cheese, if you wish.

A green vegetable or side salad go well with any risotto, but especially with the basic one above.

 

Notes:

• If you don't have or use butter, add a couple of tablespoons of olive oil; otherwise just use one tbsp plus the butter.
• Substitute vegan ghee for butter.
• Try to avoid using red onions - they will colour the risotto.
• You can heat your extra hot water/stock while the pressure is coming off. 

Variations:

 

Please read through these little recipes carefully before starting cooking.

• Broad bean risotto: Shell the beans to make up about a cup full.  Following the basic risotto recipe above, cook the beans in a small amount of water to which you have added 1/4 tsp dried mint, until they are just tender.  Scoop them out onto a plate with a slotted spoon. Make up the cooking liquid to 1 1/3 cups, with stock or water and coninue with the method above.  Add the cooked beans at * and complete the recipe.
• Broccoli risotto: Following the basic risotto recipe above, cut the broccoli into tiny heads, simmer them in a small amount of water until just cooked - they will cook a bit more while reheating - and then scoop them out onto a plate with a slotted spoon. Make up the cooking water to 1 1/3 cups, with stock or water.  If you want to use some of the stalk, chop it and cook with the onions and garlic.  Continue as above, add the cooked broccoli at *, and complete the recipe.  Sprinkle with chilli flakes.
• Cauliflower risotto: 
  
  Following the basic risotto recipe above, cut off the florets, to whatever size suits you, depending on what result you are aiming for. Lightly cook them, remove with a slotted spoon and set aside.  Make up the cooking water to 1 1/3 cups, with stock or water. Take the stalk and any trimmings, chop and cook with the onions and garlic and 1/4 tsp chilli flakes.  Add the water/stock and continue with the method above.  While the risotto is cooking, you can thinly slice the florets, if you wish.   Add the cauliflower at *, and complete the recipe.  A variation is to cook the cauliflower more thoroughly and to gently mash it into the cooked rice.
• Green bean risotto.  Following the recipe above, cook about a dozen beans, sliced into 30mm/1in pieces, in a small amount of water with 1/4 tsp dried oregano, until they are almost ready.  Scoop them out onto a plate with a slotted spoon. Make up the cooking water to 1 1/3 cups, with stock or water and carry on with the recipe.  Add the cooked beans at * and complete the recipe.
• Mushroom risotto:
  
  Read through the recipe above.  (If you have any, soak a few dried mushrooms in hot water for 30 minutes or so and use the water in the stock). Take half a dozen or so fresh mushrooms and fry them in the oil/butter with the onion and garlic, together with 1/4 tsp thyme and 1/2 tsp rosemary (1/4 tsp sage also goes well if you are using darker mushrooms).  When the onions are soft, set everything aside on a plate.  Now add some more oil to the pan.  Add the rice and cook for a minute or so until the grains start to turn translucent and crackle. Add the mushroom liquid to the water/stock to make 2 cups of liquid (you don't need wine with this risotto), then pour this over the rice.  Now add the drained mushrooms, put on the lid and bring up to pressure as per the recipe above.  Add the cooked mushrooms at * and complete the recipe.  If you are lucky enough to have some, drizzle some truffle oil over before serving.
• Pea risotto: Shell sufficient fresh peas to fill about half a cup. Bring a small amount of water to the boil, together with 1/4 tsp dried mint and a couple of the pods.  Add the peas and cook for one minute, then scoop them out onto a plate with a slotted spoon. Remove the pods. Make up the cooking water to 1 1/3 cups, with stock or water, and follow the basic risotto recipe.  Add the cooked peas at * and complete the recipe.  If you don't have fresh peas, you can use a similar amount of freeze-dried.  Cook them in the stock/water, together with the dried mint until they are nearly cooked.  Scoop them out with a slotted spoon and set aside.  Make up the liquid to 1 1/3 cups and follow the recipe.  Add the cooked peas at * and complete the recipe. 
• Pea and sun-dried tomato risotto: Follow the instructions for Pea Risotto, but add three or four sun-dried tomatoes, cut into strips, with the fennel seeds.
• Risotto Milanesa:  This is the classic Italian recipe and is very beautiful.  Saffron is horribly expensive, but its glorious colour and subtle fragrance make it worthwhile using on occasion.  Do not be tempted to substitute turmeric: it will overwhelm a dish like this which is so subtly flavoured.  For the same reason, leave out the fennel and celery seeds and make sure you use some decent-tasting white wine. Following the basic risotto recipe above, heat 1/4 cup of the water you intend to cook the rice in and add a good pinch of saffron strands (about 1/4 tsp).  Allow them to infuse for about 20 minute.  Cook the basic risotto as above, and add the saffron liquid to the water/stock to make up 1 1/3 cups.  Complete the recipe.

 

 

Sun-dried tomato pesto

 

Blender alert

 

I love sun-dried tomato pesto: it has a rich and intense flavour, softened by the nuts. It makes an excellent spread, is a superb grown-up substitute for tomato ketchup and I like to use it as a base for frying pan pizza. As long as you have a blender, it’s also easy to make, but I'm afraid that in this case, the blender is a necessity.

 

Most pesto recipes, including those based on tomatoes, call for fresh basil, but all too often, this is inappropriate for a voyaging boat. It’s usually relatively expensive, it doesn’t keep well, even if you have a fridge and a ‘bunch’ of basil is not very quantifiable. Moreover, this is only something that is available when you have frequent access to shops. I add a teaspoon of dried basil to this pesto, but if you feel it tastes wrong, you can leave it out altogether! Or add more if you wish. Or even add fresh basil should you be lucky enough to have some. But this is intended as a voyaging recipe that you can make from ingredients that you have in your lockers.  

 

Makes about 1 cup

 

Ingredients

 

1/4 cup sunflower seeds

3/4 cup sun-dried tomatoes, packed in oil, including oil

1 clove garlic, peeled and roughly chopped

1 tbsp nutritional yeast

1 tsp dried basil

1/2 tsp vinegar or lemon juice*

salt and pepper

water

 

Instructions

• I suggest whizzing up the sunflower seeds first. This way you can chop them to the extent that you want. They are unlikely to get pulverised, once you’ve added the tomatoes.
• Once the sunflower seeds are chopped up, add the tomatoes, garlic, nutritional yeast, basil and vinegar. Blend to a chunky consistency. 
• Now carefully separate the blender and taste. Add more vinegar if you think it’s required.  
• Check the saltiness - some sun-dried tomatoes are much saltier than others - and adjust, then add a good grinding of pepper. If the pesto seems too thick - and it probably will - add some water. Blend and check the consistency again (you might be able to do this simply by shaking the goblet), leaving it chunky or making it smooth, as you wish. You may need to add water several times some tomatoes seem denser than others.

Decant it into a glass jar, for preference. Use it more as a condiment than a dip - it’s quite strongly flavoured. However, it would make a brilliant pâté, mashed with some white beans.

 

Notes:

• Theoretically, this should be kept in the fridge, but I’ve found that as all the ingredients keep without refrigeration, so they do when they are combined! However, don’t keep it too long in a warm climate, because the oil may turn rancid.
• Add more garlic if you like it to be more emphatic
• With the sundried tomatoes I normally buy, I need at least 1/4 tsp salt.

Variations:

• Be aware that some sun-dried tomatoes in oil have vinegar already added, so taste them first to make sure you don't overpower your pesto with the taste.
• Try adding a few chilli flakes if you’re fond of them
• Capers would also go well in this pesto
• If you’re feeling wealthy, use pinenuts instead of the sunflower seeds. Or any other nut or seed that takes your fancy.

Butter/Cannelini bean and sun-dried tomato spread

Warning: blender alert!

 

Sun-dried tomatoes, especially those sold in oil, have a rich flavour that is far beyond that of mere tomatoes. This is a great spread or pâté, depending on how posh you feel! It also makes an excellent sandwich filling or goes well with thick slices of fresh, crusty bread for lunch. Use cannellinni beans of butter beans are unobtainable.

I recommend a stick blender for this - the pâté ends up quite thick and it is difficult to move it around in a blender. I also prefer it to have a bit of texture.  You could finely cut up the sun-dried tomatoes and mash the other ingredients, perhpas pounding the beans with a mortar; I’m sure the spread would still be quite wonderful.

Serves 4 as a starter

6 halves of sun-dried tomatoes in oil

2 tbsp oil from the jar

juice of 1 lemon OR a few small pieces of salted lemon

400 g tin butter beans, or 1/2 cup dried beans, cooked

3-4 tbsp reserved water

5-6 sprigs fresh thyme or 1/2 tsp dried

salt and pepper

Method:

• Tip the sun-dried tomatoes, oil, lemon juice and 3 tbsp water into a bowl.  Use the blender to chop up the tomatoes  
• Drain the beans, reserving the liquid, and add to the blender with thyme leaves (or dried thyme).
• Blend to a pâté-type consistency, as smooth as you want. Then taste and add salt and black pepper as required. Be careful with the salt: sun-dried tomatoes, canned beans and the salted lemon (if you're using it) might already have added enough salt.  
  If the spread is a little too thick, stiff, add some of the reserved bean liquid, or maybe a drop of wine. Blend again until you get the right consistency.

Serve with toast or crackers, in sandwiches, or with fresh bread.

Variations:

• Instead of lemon juice, use lime juice or balsamic vinegar. 
• Add some hot sauce or chilli flakes to the mix.
• Add diced onion or pepper. 
• Add 1/4 tsp dried, minced garlic
• Mix in some of Annie's Mixed Herbs as well as, or instead of the thyme.
• Use half a dozen chopped black olives.
• Add a tsp chopped capers.
• Add some diced pepperdews
• Use 1 tsp za'atar in place of the thyme.