Cornish pasties

Pasties originate in Cornwall, so perhaps it’s not surprising that I associate them with Falmouth.  Known locally as ‘Oggies’ for some obscure reason, they were a neatly packaged lunch for men working in the tin mines.  The story goes that they were savoury at one end and that the other end was filled with jam. Nowadays, they’re usually made with meat, but of course they were originally vegetarian – miners couldn’t afford meat for lunch. Rowes, in Falmouth, used to make (and probably still do!) probably the best vegetarian pasty that I’ve ever eaten.  However, they used flaky pastry, which is far from authentic and so awkward to make, that I don’t suggest it for any of my recipes, in spite of which, the following recipe is an attempt to replicate Rowes' masterpiece.

 

Ideally, pasties are made in an oven, but if you don’t have one, they can be ‘dry’ fried in a heavy frying pan and are almost as good. To do this, put the frying pan over a flame tamer and a low flame. When you’ve made the pasties, put them in the pan. Their semi-circular shape makes this quite straightforward. After about 10 minutes, carefully turn them over, using a fish slice and/or tongs. Cook the other side. The pastry should brown nicely where it’s in contact with the pan and the rest should cook through to become opaque. Turn them again for another 5 minutes each side if they don’t seem quite done. If you have a well-vented lid to let the steam out, (so that they don’t end up soggy) you can cover them to speed things up a little.

 

Makes 2 pasties

 

Ingredients

 

1 portion of pastry

1 potato

1 carrot

1 small swede or turnip - about the size of a tennis ball

1 onion

a good pinch each of rosemary, thyme and sage

1/2 tsp salt

1/2 tsp white pepper

 

Method:

• If you are using it, pre-heat the oven to Fairly Hot. 
• Thinly slice the potato, carrot, swede and onion, then put them into a pan of lightly salted water, bring to the boil and cook for 5 minutes.
• Add the herbs, salt and the white pepper. Half a tsp might seem a lot, but in my opinion, good pasties are always quite peppery and cook abit longer, until tender – about ten minutes. Drain and cool, trying not to break up the slices.  
• Make the pastry and roll out; cut out two discs about the diameter of your frying pan or about 200mm/8 in across, if you're cooking in the oven.
• Pile the filling carefully in the centre of each disc. 
• Now moisten the edges with water: a 12 mm (1/2 inch) paintbrush is ideal for this, or just use your finger. Fold each disc in two and pinch the edges together. The easiest way tends to be to start from the middle and work to the ends. Poke back any of the filling that tries to drop out. When the pasty is sealed, fold the seam back over on itself, at 12 mm/1/2 in intervals, to double seal the edge and pinch it between finger and thumb. This should result in a highly professional looking crimped effect.
• Bake in a Fairly Hot oven for 20 – 25 minutes. Or dry fry them in a heavy frying pan (see introduction to recipe). Eat hot or cold.
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Notes:

• If you don’t have white pepper, use black, but the white pepper is what is traditionally used and adds a different sort of ‘heat’ from black.
• If you are confident about the pan/flame tamer arrangement, add a little oil to the pan before adding the pasties. This will ensure a delightful golden crust, but if the pan is too hot you could easily burn the pastry.

Variations:

• Cook a small diced potato, small carrot, small onion and 1/4 cup split peas in a small saucepan. Season with a few herbs, salt and pepper and, when it’s cooled, pile onto the pastry. Complete and cook as above.
• Leftover stewor hotpot can also be used. Ensure it’s well drained before putting it on the pastry.
• Add freeze-dried peas to the filling.
• Any of the fillings for empanadas can be used to make a savoury pasty.
• Pasties are good hot, as a main meal, with a green vegetable such as Brussels sprouts. I dare say some people would like to add a gravy or sauce of some description, too.

 

White bean chilli with winter vegetables

As someone who really enjoys food with a dash of chilli in it, particularly in cold weather, this is one of my favourite dishes. If you make the recipe as shown, you will have sufficient for two hearty appetites. If you want to feed more people, serve with kumara or sweet potatoes or baked potatoes. 

 

The original recipe just used the lower part of the leeks, and this is what I’m following. I usually use the whole thing, because I find the green part is rarely tough or stringy. Besides, it’s going to be cooked in the pressure cooker! Split the leeks in four lengthways as far as the root, and rinse thoroughly in plenty of clean (sea)water, if they are full or soil or grit, before preparing them. One is always told to remove the ‘woody centre’ from parsnips: I have yet to find one. But if yours have a woody centre, then by all means remove it.

 

Serves 2

 

Ingredients

 

olive oil

1 medium leek, white and 1 inch of pale green part, diced

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 large carrot, peeled if necessary, chopped

1 large or 2 medium parsnips, peeled if necessary and diced

1 tsp ground cumin

1/2 tsp oregano

chilli flakes to taste (at least 1/4 tsp)

1/2 tsp salt

2/3 cup of dried white beans, soaked

1 avocado

fresh parsley 

 

Method:

• Heat the oil in a pressure cooker. Add the leek, garlic and 2 tbsp water. Cook until the leeks are softened: about 5 minutes
• Add carrots and parsnips; stir to coat. Cook, stirring often, until just beginning to soften: about 2 minutes.
• Add chilli flakes, cumin, oregano and salt. Stir until fragrant: about 1 minute.
• Add the beans, together with 11/2 cups of water. Bring up to pressure and cook for 10 – 15 minutes depending on the type of bean used. Let the pressure reduce naturally.
• Remove the lid from the pressure cooker. Check seasoning.
• Garnish with parsley and chopped avocado, if available.

Serve immediately. Any leftovers make a fine foundation for soup.

 

Variations:

• Use the entire leek. 
• If leeks are unavailable, use 1 large onion
• You can add other root vegetables, such as turnip, swede and sweet potato. In that case, the chilli is great served with bread.
• Add a tin of tomatoes and 1/2 cup less water.
• Use a fresh red chilli. 
• Try it with red kidney or black beans. 

 

 

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Chickpea and mushroom quiche

 

This is one of my favourite quiches and is especially luxurious when made with cream. It is ideal for for entertaining, especially if you have baby new potatoes to go with it. In hot weather, when you don’t want your guests eating in a sweltering boat, it can be made in advance and eaten lukewarm.

 

I’m afraid that I don’t accept that a white sauce made with gram flour is an acceptable substitute for a sauce made with eggs. However, if you are well along the vegan spectrum, I suggest alternatives to cows’ milk, which is what I invariably use. You might want to use coconut milk - but I think that it might not complement the tarragon and green peppercorns.

 

Serves 2

 

Ingredients

 

1/2 cup chickpeas, soaked and cooked

1 recipe pastry

1 large onion, chopped

2 garlic cloves, diced

8 to 10 button mushrooms, sliced

1 tbsp olive oil

1 tbsp butter or extra olive oil

1 egg

1/3 cup (vegan) yoghurt OR cream

1/4 cup milk OR water

1/2 tsp tarragon

1 tsp crushed green peppercorns

salt

 

Method:

• Cook the chickpeas and set aside.
• Make the pastry and roll it out to fit a 230 mm (9 in) frying pan. Press to fit, cutting and pasting as necessary, to line the entire pan.
• Put the frying pan on a low heat over a flame tamer, and cook uncovered, for 10 to 15 minutes, until the pastry is crisp.
• Meanwhile, prepare the onion and garlic and fry in the oil and butter. If you don’t have any butter, use an extra tbsp of olive oil, but the butter makes this quiche richer.
• Slice the mushrooms and add to the pan. Cook without browning until the onion is thoroughly softened and the mushrooms have wilted.
• When the pastry is cooked, put the vegetables in the case, spreading them evenly over the base.
• Put the drained chickpeas on top, again spreading them out evenly.
• Gently beat the egg, yoghurt or cream and milk or water together. Mix in the tarragon, green peppercorns and salt. Pour this carefully into the frying pan, tilting it so that the custard is evenly distributed.
• Cover and cook over a low heat, until the custard has risen and is set – approximately 15 to 20 minutes.

Serve, if you can with new potatoes and a salad of mixed leaves. On a hot day, and in the unlikely event that youcan provide it, chilled white wine is delicious with this quiche.

Alternative cooking:

• If you prefer to cook the quiche in the oven, line a 200 mm (8 in) flan case with pastry and bake it in a pre-heated, Fairly Hot oven for 15 minutes. If possible, put a heavy baking sheet on the top shelf to heat up with the oven. This gives you a better chance of ending up with a crisp base.
• Follow stages 3 – 7. Reduce the oven setting to Moderate, and then put the quiche back in the oven for a further 30 minutes, until the filling is set. It should have risen to the top of the case and be a delicate golden colour.

Note:

• I have made this quiche with green peppercorns in brine, when I couldn’t find dried green peppercorns, but the result it disappointing compared with the dried ones.
• If you have access to fresh herbs, you might well prefer to use these. However, tarragon has its own quite distinct flavour, which I think goes well in this recipe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Scots Broth

 

Traditional Scots Broth is made with mutton, or at least a mutton bone.  However, it is quintessential peasant food, making use of cheap and readily available ingredients.  I rather suspect that there were many crofts and cottages that rarely saw meat and that my version isn't too far from the original.  This is a great meal for those on a small income.

 

The soup made from dried and winter vegetables.  Leeks are often used, as are 'neeps', better known as swede (or rutabaga in USA).  Kale or cabbage can be added and often are, but they tend to make the soup smell a bit sulphorous by day two, so if you feel that you might be eating this soup for a while, I would suggest chopping and wilting some and stirring it into the bowl as you serve, on the first day.  Cabbage is worse for this, so you might be happy just adding the kale towards the end, so that it still has some texture.  The rest of the vegetables should be thoroughly softened.

 

Although it's called a broth, this is actually a pretty substantial soup and the starches will thicken it up overnight.  You will undoubtedly need to water it down the next day.  I use white pepper in this recipe.  This is the pepper that was generally used in Britain until the late 70s when black peppercorns and grinders became popular.  It is quite different from ground black pepper, with more pungency and less savour.  I think it seems the right one to use, but use black if you prefer or if that's all you have.  Don't go overboard with herbs - there wouldn't be many available in a cottage garden in the colder months in Scotland.  But I suspect dried thyme would be readily available.

 

If your seawater is clean, use 1/3 to 2/3 fresh water.  Don't add any more salt until you've cooked the soup and tasted it.

 

Serves 2, very generously

 

Ingredients

 

1 tbsp of oil

I large onion, chopped

salt 

I large or 2 medium carrots, diced

1 large or 2 medium parsnips, diced

1 medium potato, diced

1/2 tsp celery seed OR 1 stick celery diced

1 tsp stock powder

1/4 cup dried peas (eg blue peas)

2 tbsp yellow split peas

2 tbsp split lentils

1/2 cup barley

1/2 tsp dried thyme

1/2 tsp white pepper

about 3 cups water

fresh parsley

 

Method:

• Soak the whole peas in the usual manner in your pressure cooker.
• When you're ready to make the soup, add the oil.  Then add the onion and cook for a few minutes with the peas, together with 1/2 tsp salt and mix well.
• Add the carrots, parsnips, potato and celery seed.  Sprinkle over another 1/2 tsp of salt and stir everything together.  Cover with a cup of water.
• Mix in the stock powder and then add the split peas, lentils and barley. Stir well.
• Now add another 2 cups water, if your pressure cooker can take it.  The split peas and lentils are inclined to foam up and block the vent, although the oil should prevent this, so don't overfill the pan.
• Spoon in the thyme and the pepper, cover the pan and bring up to pressure. 
• Cook for 7 minutes and let the pressure come down gradually.
• Once you can remove the lid, taste the soup and add more salt, pepper and thyme if you think it needs it.  Take out some grains of barley and a couple of peas to check that they are cooked through.  If not, cover and give the soup another couple of minutes under pressure, letting the pressure down gradually.
• If the soup seems too thick, thin it with more hot water and taste again.  It should be generously seasoned with salt and pepper
• If you have such a thing on board, chop some fresh parsley and add it to the soup.  Stir it all again and let it stand for a few minutes.

Serve hot, with fresh bread - or on its own.  This is definitely a meal in a bowl.

 

Note:

• Ensure that your root vegetables are all cut to about the same size so that they will cook evenly. 

Variations:

• Vegan ghee is a good alternative to oil, especially if you only have olive oil. 
• Add some shredded cabbage or kale. 
• Use a small turnip or swede instead of parsnip.  Alternatively, you can use less carrot and parsnip and add turnip and/or swede.  Or double the recipe and use them all (but you will need a large pressure cooker).
• You can add replace the onion with a leek or use both, but beware of overloading the pan!
• Use a different stock powder, or leave it out altogether. There will still be plenty of flavour. 
• Chana dal can be used in place of yellow split peas, which is what I do, because I always have them on board. 
• Use black pepper if you don't have white. 

  

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'Chicken' seitan and spinach in Indian creamy sauce - Malai palak

This is one of those insanely good Indian recipes that I find irresistable.  Malai means cream, Palak is spinach and this is a loosely adapted recipe from Vegan Richa. In her recipe, she uses soy curls to replace chicken, which are then cooked in a delectable creamy spicy sauce. I’m not even sure if you can buy soy curls in New Zealand and can’t imagine them being commonly available around the world, so it strikes me as a much better idea to use seitan.  Seitan also produces a nice 'meaty' result.

In the original, the soy curls are marinaded and then baked. I think marinades are unseamanlike underway, as well as being wasteful. Certainly, I don’t find it makes much difference to seitan and in fact you get infinitely better results from incorporating the flavours into the seitan in the first place. This is what I’ve done in this recipe. As for baking - I assume many small income voyagers stil lsail without ovens and even those who do, will probabaly avoid using them because of the cost - and the fact that they heat up the cabin.

 

I use ginger paste and garlic paste in my ‛Indian’ cooking. If you prefer to use finely minced ginger and garlic, go ahead.  I'm not sure that this is really a Curry For Cooks, in spite the use of ingredients being pretty authentic: most boats would probably have them on board.  The only exception is the methi and if you don't have it you can leave it out.

Serves 2

Ingredients

For the ‟marinaded chicken”

6 slightly rounded tbsp vital wheat gluten

2 tbsp gram flour

2 tsp nutritional yeast

1/2 tsp mushroom stock powder

1/4 tsp salt

1/4 tsp onion powder

        1/4 tsp garlic granules

1/2 tsp ground coriander

1/2 tsp ground cumin

1/4 cup water

1 tbsp soya sauce

For the sauce:

1 tsp oil

1 (Indian) bay leaf

1 whole clove

1 medium onion, chopped

1/2 tsp garlic paste

1/2 tsp ginger paste

1 small green chilli, diced

1/4 tsp salt

1/2 tsp ground coriander

1/2 tsp ground cumin

1/8 tsp cayenne OR 1/4 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder

pinch ground cinnamon

1/8 tsp black pepper

*200 ml/7 oz ounce can of full fat coconut milk

2 tbsp vegan yoghurt

1/4 cup water or milk

125 g/4 oz spinach, washed and roughly chopped

1 tsp dried fenugreek leaves, kasuri methi

garam masala

chilli flakes

Method:

• Seitan: In a bowl, mix vital wheat gluten, gram flour, nutritional yeast, mushroom stock powder, salt, onion powder, garlic granules, ground coriander and ground cumin.
• In a small jug, mix the water and soya sauce and add them to the bowl.
• Mix into a soft dough, starting with a knife or spatula and ending with your hand. If the mix seems a little bit dry, add a little more water, a teaspoonful at a time. Use the dough to clean your bowl thoroughly, otherwise the dried seitan will need to be soaked off.
• Put the dough on a board and flatten down. You will be cutting it into bite-sized chunks, so it wants to be a suitable thickness.
• Put the trivet into your pressure cooker, along with 1/2 cup water. Place the seitan on the trivet, and bring up to pressure for 5 minutes. Let the pressure go down naturally.
• When you can take the lid off, take out the seitan and cut it up – or tear it for a more ‛authentic’ appearance.
• If you want to, you can now fry the chunks in some oil so that they are crisp on the outside. On odds, I think I prefer them soft.

For the sauce:

• Heat a pan over medium high heat and add some oil.
• Now add the bay leaf, clove, onion, garlic paste, ginger paste, green chilli salt. Cook stirring occasionally until onion is golden.
• Turn down the heat and add coriander, ground cumin, cayenne or Kashmiri chilli, cinnamon and black pepper
• Throw in the seitan pieces and turn for a few minutes so that they are well mixed in and covered in the spices.
• Then add in the milk, yoghurt, water and spinach and mix in. Reduce heat to medium low, cover and cook for 12-15 mins, checking that it’s not drying out. Add some more water, if necessary.
• Add the kasuri methi, check salt and flavour and carry on cooking until you get a rich creamy sauce.

Garnish with garam masala and chilli pepper flakes if you like, and serve with rice, roti or even good quality bread.

Variations:

• Use two or three leaves of Swiss chard instead of spinach.
• Replace the seitan with half a cup of chickpeas or beans, cooked and drained, putting them in with the spinach
• Add some quartered mushrooms, with the onions, etc.
• If you don’t have yoghurt, use more milk/water. If you have a lot of coconut yoghurt, you can just thin that down to suit. You need around 300 ml liquid. You may need to simmer for more or less time to achieve the consistency you want.

Notes:

• * Coconut milk tends to come in an odd assortment of sizes. Just use a can closest to the size in the recipe. If you’re fortunate to find dried, genuine coconut milk, mix that according to the instructions on the container.

 

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Basic 'chicken' seitan

If you haven't made seitan before, I recommend you read my introduction to the process here. 

 

The basic proportions for making seitan are 1/4 cup of water to 1/2 cup flour.  However, this is somewhat excessively basic and the following recipe is a more appropriate basic 'chicken' recipe. 

 

Before we go any further, and at the risk of shattering all your hopes and illusions, seitan doesn’t taste remotely like chicken. I say this as someone who hasn’t eat chicken for well over a decade, but for all that, I say it with some certainty. I don’t want anyone to be disappointed.

 

This is the one to use if you are copying a tofu recipe: add the seasoning suggested for the marinade (if any) to the dry ingredients.  This 'chicken' can also be used to replace beans and chickpeas in various recipes or even to replace the meat in a well-flavoured chicken dish.  However, I wouldn't recommend serving a slab of it on a plate, with roast potatoes, two veg and gravy!

Serves  2

Ingredients

        1/3 cup  vital wheat gluten

        2 tbsp gram flour

        2 tsp nutritional yeast

1/2 tsp mushroom 'stock' powder

        1/4 tsp onion powder

        1/4 tsp garlic granules

       

1/4 cup water

1 tbsp soya sauce

 

Method:

• In a bowl, mix vital wheat gluten, gram flour, nutritional yeast, mushroom stock powder, salt, onion powder and garlic granules.
• In a small jug, mix the water and soya sauce and add them to the bowl.  Combine everything into a soft dough, starting with a knife or spatula and ending with your hand. If the mix seems a little bit dry, add some more water, a teaspoonful at a time. If too wet, carefully add some more vital wheat gluten.  Use the dough to clean your bowl thoroughly, otherwise the dried seitan will need to be soaked off.
• Put the dough on a board and flatten it down. You will be cutting it into bite-sized chunks, so it wants to be a suitable thickness.
• Put the trivet into your pressure cooker, along with ½ cup water. Place the seitan on the trivet, and bring up to pressure for 5 minutes. Let the pressure go down naturally.
• When you can take the lid off, take out the seitan and cut it up – or tear it for a more ‛organic’ appearance.
• If you want to, you can now fry the chunks in some oil so that they are crisp on the outside. On odds, I think I prefer them soft.

The seitan can now be added to your recipes and, simmered for as long as suits you.  Because it's completely cooked, it only needs reheating; however, it is robust and doesn't start to dissolve - I've often simmered it for about 20 minutes.  It is also quite happy to be shoved around by the spoon without collapsing.  I've seen recipes for tofu kebabs and this seitan, suitably flavoured, should also be a success in this context, too.

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